1986 First Growth Bordeaux

The 1980s were a great time to be a bold pattern combo and an even better time to be a Bordeaux wine. The 1982 vintage is, obviously, iconic, but let’s not forget about its younger sibling: 1986. A year with a distinct style – concentrated and powerful – the wines require long aging. Lucky for us, it’s been 37 years of aging, and these eighties babies are totally radical dude. Even more lucky for us, we’ve got this lot of First Growths from 1986 that are the pinnacle of winemaking. Lafite and Mouton happened to produce some of their best bottlings ever in 1986 – approachable and delicious now with plenty of life to them.

For the Left Bank, the wines were powerful and sophisticated with big, structured tannins and significant capacity to age, particularly from the appellations of Saint-Estèphe, Pauillac and Saint-Julien, where the top wines tended to be made. The wines of Graves were also particularly fine and age-worthy and some very successful dry whites were also produced.

In general, the 1986 Bordeaux vintage championed Cabernet Sauvignon with hard, tannic structures and impressive lifespans. Time in the cellar has done nothing but great things for these bottles, and they are just itching for you to take them home!

Paddles up for these totally tubular 1986 First Growths!

Château Haut Brion 1986
Tasted at the Château, the 1986 Haut Brion is a vintage that I had not tasted for some time. It is a blend of 28% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 62% Cabernet Sauvignon according to the Château’s records. Mirroring the 1996 La Mission, in this vintage that Haut-Brion occupies a higher quality level, with more complexity and vivacity on the nose: dusky black fruit, warm gravel, terracotta and cigar humidor. Lovely! The palate is very well balanced, maybe a little rustic compared to recent vintages, yet with firm body and grip. It’s the kind of gruff, almost surly, broad-shouldered 1986 that might be a little curmudgeonly compared to 1985 or 1989, however after 30 years you are compensated with plenty of freshness and focus. I don’t think it ranks up there with the best of the first growth … that would come in other vintages, but it still provides plenty of drinking pleasure for those who love their classic claret with capital “C.” (WA 93)

Château Lafite Rothschild 1986 (2 bottles)
The 1986 Lafite Rothschild unfurls in the decanter and glass with aromas of earthy blackcurrant fruit mingled with notions of cigar box and red berries. Richer and darker in profile than the 1975 drunk alongside, it’s medium to full-bodied, ample and concentrated, displaying a velvety attack and a lively core of fruit, with just a touch of the tannic asperity that often defines this vintage in the Médoc making itself felt on the finish. As it approaches its 40th birthday, the 1986 Lafite still needs several hours decant to show its best. (WA 95+)

Château Latour 1986 (2 bottles)
Tasted from my cellar, the 1986 has consistently been outstanding, falling short of being sublime. The spicy, peppery bouquet reveals aromas of dried herbs and red currant fruit. Medium-bodied, austere, but youthful, vigorous, and concentrated, this wine still requires 4-5 years of cellaring. It is surpassed in this vintage (which favored the northern Médoc and Cabernet Sauvignon) by its rivals, Lafite-Rothschild and Mouton-Rothschild. (RP 90)

Château Margaux 1986 (2 bottles)
A magnificent example of Château Margaux and one of the most tannic, backward Margaux of the last 50 years, the 1986 continues to evolve at a glacial pace. The color is still a dense ruby/purple with just a hint of lightening at the rim. With several hours of aeration, the aromatics become striking, with notes of smoke, toast, crème de cassis, mineral, and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, with high but sweet tannin, great purity, and a very masculine, full-bodied style, this wine should prove nearly immortal in terms of its aging potential. It is beginning to budge from its infantile stage and approach adolescence. (RP 98)

Château Mouton Rothschild 1986 (2 bottles)
The 1986 Mouton-Rothschild is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot that was picked from 2 October until 16 October. Winemaker Philippe Dhalluin, who was not working at the property back then, told me that the pH was fairly low at 3.54 when it is usually around 3.75, due to the natural tartaric acid in the vines. It has a powerful and intense bouquet as always: exemplary graphite and cedar scents, a touch of black pepper and incense. It seems to unfurl in the glass, like a motor revving its engine. The palate is beautifully balanced with its trademark firm tannic structure, a Mouton-Rothschild with backbone and masculinity. Layers of black fruit intermingling with mint and graphite, a hint of licorice emanating from the Merlot, gently fanning out and my God, it is incredibly long. It is not like the 1985 Mouton-Rothschild that is so fleshy and generous. This is serious, aristocratic Mouton, a true vin de garde and yes, I do think drinkers will have to wait until it reaches its true peak. Sometimes that’s just the way it is. (WA 100)

This wine lot includes:
Château Haut Brion 1986

Château Lafite Rothschild 1986 (2 bottles)

Château Latour 1986 (2 bottles)

Château Margaux 1986 (2 bottles)

Château Mouton Rothschild 1986 (2 bottles)

Donated by Janice & David Morgan, Deby & Keith Pitts, Beth & John Huff,  Jane & Peter Marcum